While fibre touring the Brooklyn General Store I decided to pick up a bag of superfine merino pencil roving (sadly, only 2 oz of it) and a few packets of acid dye. I dyed the pencil roving in strips, split it right down the centre when it was dry, spun, and chain plied each one into 2 identical skeins. The skeins are 25g each and just about 100 yards.

Spinning my own hand dye, AND getting a 3ply sock yarn! I feel like I’ve arrived, somehow. Now, what to do with them?

DSCF0606 DSCF0874 DSCF0880 DSCF0883


Storms over Rochester

Tito and I both know that photography is sometimes about being willing to drop whatever you’re doing, no matter how tired you are, and go grab your camera. So tonight, when we were both dead to the world and Tito called me out to the balcony to point out that there was an electrical storm on the other side of Lake Ontario (in what I believe to be Rochester) then you know we had to get out the cams and start clicking.

It was an incredible sight. From where we stood it was like being at eye level to the storm. There was no lack of opportunity as the storm flashed on for a good hour. It gave us a privileged glimpse into the storm cloud itself.

Here are my faves from the night :) Tired or no, I couldn’t wait to process them, and share them, both here and on my photography site. If you are interested in prints, please click here to give it a look, but either way I hope you enjoy these!

3V8A8269 3V8A8380 3V8A8262 3V8A8495 3V8A8313 3V8A8626

Faux Enamel Resin Earrings


Using resin to create a faux enamel effect is super easy, and once you get the hang of it you can mix virtually any colour you want and use it for all kinds of fun applications. This is a very simple project to make adorable fake enamel earrings.

If you enjoy this tutorial please consider checking out my e-book on resin jewellery to learn more, including how to preserve and resin flowers, making bangles and spheres, and layering elements in the resin to create more complex pieces. If you’re interested, click here :)


You will need:

2 part epoxy resin. Because I plan to add pigment to my piece, I don’t need to use jewelry grade resin so I am using Easy Cast, which is slightly more affordable. If you were planning a transparent piece, or using flowers in your work I definitely would recommend you use a jewelry grade resin (such as Ice Resin or Envirotex Jewelry resin) instead.


Bezels and earring hooks. I am using 2 heart-shaped bezels by Susan Lenart, purchased from BeadFX.


1 small, graduated mixing cup.


Pigments for the resin. Here I am using opaque white resin pigment from Castin’ Craft and pink Pearl EX powered pigment by Jacquard


Stir sticks, in this case a couple of craft (popsicle) sticks will do well.


And finally, a large plastic cup to cover your pieces with, to protect them from dust as they cure.


Begin by mixing your resin. Into the graduated mixing up, add 15 ml of resin. It’s a good idea to put plastic cling wrap over your working surface before starting.


Into the same cup, add 15 ml of hardener. It is crucial that you achieve a 1:1 ratio between resin and hardener, or your mixture may not cure.


Using your stir stick, mix the resin gently. Work both clockwise and counter clockwise, using your stick to scrape the sides and bottom of the cup. Make sure you scrape off the resin that’s on the stir stick as well. You want a uniform mixture, without any striations, and as few bubbles as you can manage. Don’t ‘whip’ the resin as you’re mixing it – this will introduce lots of bubbles! Getting a nice even mixture should take about 2 minutes of constant stirring.


Add just 2 drops of the opaque white pigment. Don’t overdo this part – a little of the pigment goes a long way and too much will extend your cure time.


Blend it into the resin by mixing gently until it’s evenly combined.


Use your wooden stir stick to scoop up a green pea-sized amount of the powered pigment.


Blend it into the resin by mixing gently until it’s evenly combined.


Use your wooden stir stick to add it to the bezels drop by drop. Resist the urge to just pour the resin in straight from the cup – spilled resin is very hard to clean!


Add resin until your mixture starts to ‘dome’ slightly out of the bezel. Resin will contract slightly as it cures, so adding a little extra will give you a nice even surface. You can see here that the heart on the left has been domed and the heart on the right is still under-full.


Now both hearts have just the right amount of resin. If you have any bubbles, you can use use a pin to prick them.


Cover the pieces with the plastic cup and let them sit undisturbed for at least 24 hours.


Add your earring wires, voila!


I would advise that you let the resin sit for at least 72 hours before wearing your earrings. Resin will come to a soft cure in 12, but a full hard cure takes 72. If you enjoy this tutorial and you give it a whirl please share photos, I’d love to see what you make!


New Smugmug Gallery – Mt Kiluea

Mt Kilauea in Hawaii has been constantly erupting since 1983, and was the absolute highlight of our trip. We took a boat ride out at 3 in the morning so we could see the volcano by dawn. The waves were 20ft, the lava was hot, and I lost a lens to salt water erosion after I got home. I am not ashamed to say that I was shaking as I shot this, because the combination of the high waves and the deep troughs made for one harrowing ride! To witness such a majestic sight, new land as it’s being created, was truly one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had :) I’ve added these pics to my Smugmug site, so if you’re interested in prints, check it out!

Mt Kilauea lava flow ©Shireen Nadir 2014 Mt Kilauea lava flow ©Shireen Nadir 2014 Mt Kilauea lava flow ©Shireen Nadir 2014 Mt Kilauea lava flow ©Shireen Nadir 2014 Mt Kilauea lava flow ©Shireen Nadir 2014

IKEA Shoe Rack Hack


Tito and I bought a shoe rack/bench from IKEA for our front hall a few months ago. It’s a nice rack, but it was missing that element of quirky creativity that defines our home, and last night we decided it would be fun to add a customized, cushioned seat cover. It’s super easy, here’s how we did it!

Here’s our shoe rack.


I removed the top of the bench,


and also removed the side panels underneath it, to leave behind just the bench.


This is quilt batting, and it’s what I used to create a nice cushy seat. I lay the bench down on top


and used it as a template to create 4 identical stencils.


After cutting out the 4 stencils, I stacked them on top of each other and set them aside.


Then I chose my fabric cover. This is an adorable Edward Gorey’esque print that I purchased at Log Cabin Yardage last summer, and it’s been sitting in my stash waiting for just the right project.  I lay the cover down on top, being careful to keep it level with the artwork in the print.


I used a straight edge to create an outline that was offset from the bench by 2 inches.


And then I moved my straight edge and created a 2nd outline, offset by 2 more inches. There is probably an easier way to do this, but this worked for me. The marker was not going to be visible in the final piece and I needed the extra fabric to make a secure join to the bench.


I cut out my fabric stencil, and laid it face down. Then I layered my quilt batting on top.


And finally, the bench itself.


I folded the sides so they were double thick, and used a staple gun to secure them in place. It’s helpful if you remember to mark where the hardware holes are as you go along so you don’t need to hunt for them when you’re adding the side panels back on.


I didn’t need to be very neat about this next bit. I folded, and stapled, and added staples where things looked messy and when I got to the corners I treated them like a clumsy-but-serviceable gift-wrapping job and added more staples to hold it all down.


Lastly, I screwed back on the side panels, and reassembled the bench.


And here is our finished result! It’s adorable, and I’m so glad I finally used that fabric.


You can see that it looks neat and tidy even at the corners, because once the bench is reassembled all the messy staple work is hidden.


Definitely an improvement ;)

Increasing Without the Purl Bump


One more quickie tutorial to highlight a stitch variation that I use in my Sencilla Cowl Pattern. This is a modified version of the KFB (Knit front and back) increase. The regular KFB involves knitting the same stitch twice, once through the front leg and once through the back leg. This works great, but it leaves a little purl bump on the second stitch that can really detract from a pattern that relies on clean lines and fine detail to work!

Here is the slight (and super easy!) modification.

Knit the first stitch on the left hand needle the way you normally would


but don’t slide that stitch off the needle.


Insert your right hand needle as if to knit through the back loop


but instead of knitting it, simply slide it off onto the right hand needle.


Voila! Increased by one stitch without the purl bump!


The Eastern Style Purl Stitch, a Tutorial


My new pattern, Sencilla utilizes a few special stitches to really finess the look and firm up the little details. In the pattern I include photo tutorials for each one, and I thought I’d include them here on the blog as well because they’re very handy to know!

The Eastern Purl creates a shorter, tighter purl than its western cousin. Have you ever worked a cable project and noticed that the first purl after a knit stitch has an ugly, loose little ladder of excess yarn? Or that the last knitted stitch is loose and sloppy looking compared to its cousins? This method of purling eliminates all that. It was critical to the design of my Sencilla cowl because I wanted a really sharp definition along the edging cables, to really frame in the centre panel.


It’s super easy, here you go!

1. Insert your right needle as if to purl


2. Bring the working yarn to the left of the needle….


3. And wrap it clockwise around the left needle (normal purls are done counter-clock-wise)


4. Slide the stitch onto the right hand needle just like you normally would.


5. When you come to that same stitch on the following row, it will be twisted.


6. Work that stitch as a regular purl or knit, but work it through the back loop.


7. This tightens the stitch and twists it into place.

Voila! A neater, tighter purl stitch!


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